Show the kitten its litter box, food and water as soon as you get it home but be prepared for accidents! However, don’t spank the baby if it misses its litter box! Rather, pick it up, put it in its box, and make digging motions with its front paws. Young kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are, or suddenly realize they have to go now - this is normal, and will pass quickly.  (Kittens do best with their 'own' litter box and their 'own' food bowl.)

Introduce the kitten to one room at a time; offer encouragement and petting, but allow it to explore in its own time. After it is comfortable and settled down in the first room, allow it to proceed to others. Try not to startle the kitten, and again, remember that this is a stressful time.  It is not unusual for a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days.  Give lots of 'gentle' petting, soft speech(Soothing tone of voice) and encouragement and you will find that the kitten will quickly adjust.

Be aware that the kitten might cry a lot the first couple of nights. Although it is completely weaned, it may miss being around other cats, misses mom or just feels insecure and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s), this crying should stop. (If it does not stop crying, there could be another problem and you should consider consulting your vet.)

OTHER PETS: 
If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, one at a time. Do NOT leave the kitten alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain that they are good friends(this may be several weeks!)  First let the animals smell where the other has been and then see each other from a distance. When they are first introduced, if it is a dog and cat, have the dog on a leash and make sure the cat does not scratch the dog.  (Keep a water spray bottle handy).   Be certain to give the pets already in your home lots of attention in order to keep them from being jealous and to avoid stirring territorial instincts. It is always possible that the original pet may not take too kindly to the new addition.  The new kitten should have its own litter pan and food dish.

FOOD - WHAT KIND, HOW MUCH, HOW OFTEN?
Have dry KITTEN food available at all times, and of course, plenty of fresh water. Introduce the kitten to any new foods gradually to avoid upsetting its stomach. New foods should be mixed with he food the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively. Use high quality name brand 'kitten' food such as Purina One KITTEN  or  Science Diet KITTEN(byHill's) OR  Nature's Best KITTEN (Petsmart, Petco and Pet Shelters usually sell high quality pet food.)
Whether or not to feed dry or moist kitten food is debatable and there are differing opinions on this subject.  If you decide to feed moist it is VERY important to NOT leave uneaten moist food for more than a few hours. Throw away moist food that is starting to dry up. Some kittens do Not mind food served cold which has been in the refrigerator. For most kittens, if it has been in the refrigerator,  slightly 'warm' up the refrigerated food before feeding it to the kitten. If you heat food in the microwave, only do so for ONLY 7 or 8 seconds and be sure to stir it up thoroughly before offering it to the kitten. BEWARE: Microwaves tend to get food very hot in some places and not hot at all in others and, you don’t want the kitten to burn its mouth. (ONLY Room Temperature to Warm, but  NOT Hot)   Article advocating feeding moist food. Article

It is probably best NOT to give treats.  If you do give treats NEVER exceed 10% of the diet. If you make a regular habit of giving a treat after you finish eating, the kitten will learn to look forward to it and won’t bother you, your family, or your guests while you eat, but will wait patiently.

MILK - Contrary to popular belief, cow’s milk is NOT good for cats.  Most can’t digest it properly and consequently get diarrhea. Do NOT give cow's milk to kittens or cats!

FOOD DISHES - Aluminum or glass/glazed porcelain/china dishes are best if you are feeding moist food. Plastic dishes can harbor germs in the surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is small pimples on the chin, which cause swelling and discomfort and can be very difficult to clear up. If this problem arises, consult your vet for the best method of treatment. - - Plastic dishes should be fine if you are feeding only dry food.

INDOORS or OUTDOORS -
When making a decision to keep a cat strictly indoors or sometimes let them outdoors, consider the fact that cats face many dangers when outside such as cat fights, dog attacks, hit by cars, poisoned or killed by people that do not like cats and there are many contagious diseases they can get when outside. Facts clearly show that on the average indoor cats live twice as long as cats allowed to go outdoors.  Besides the basics of food and water, give them cat toys, a carpeted kitty condo, a nice window to look out of, some attention and affection and they will be content as well as safe indoors. Most animals, not all, usually benefit from having an animal companion of their own species.(Two cats or two dogs.)
Provide your cat with a window to look out as most cats enjoy sitting in a window.  Many Petsmart or Petco Stores sell window seats.  Or place a tall cat climbing carpeted house by the window.

SAFETY
Before you let your kitten loose in your home, check the following safety hazards.

• Electrical and phone cords left dangling
• Keep Toilet lids closed.  (a kitten can easily drown in a toilet bowl)
• Make certain they canNOT get in the fireplace.
• Open stairways (Kittens, puppies, cats and dogs are at great danger in home with a 'half wall' or even open rails on an upstairs room. They can easily fall through or jump over a half wall, pluging down to the floor below! Take precautions!)
• Reclining chairs and hide-a-beds (the mechanism of these can easily crush a kitten who has crawled inside)
• Hideaway (Murphy) beds (again, they can crush a kitten caught in the mechanism)
• Fringe or any loose trim (kittens have been known to strangle when their heads get twisted in the fringe or in a hole between trim and fabric) 
• Dangling drapery cords (another invitation to strangulation)
• Accessible garbage (especially any kind of bones - bones can either splinter and perforate the stomach or intestines, or form an intestinal blockage)
• Needles and/or thread; knitting and/or crocheting materials
• Rubber bands (which can wrap around the intestines)
• Plastic wrap (the kitten can eat it, strangle on it, or suffocate in it)
• Plastic bags (a kitten can become trapped and suffocate, or get its head tangled in the loop and panic
• Styrofoam (especially packing "peanuts") which the kitten may eat
• Cigarettes (They may eat them)
• Yarn or string  toys (if they come unraveled, they can wrap around the intestines or block them)
• Toys with easily removed and swallowed parts (Get rid of these toys, it is Not worth risking a kitten's life.)
• Cellophane (it turns glassy in the stomach and can cause internal lacerations)
• Christmas tree needles, tinsel and decorations
• Open refrigerators, dishwashers, microwaves, ovens, washers, dryers - always check for kittens before shutting or turning on any appliance!
• Put away feathers and toys attached to string (such as kitty teasers) after use. Kittens and cats will often eat feathers and swallow string. (Avoid buying toys with feathers.)
• Keep your workshop off limits. Cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power saws. They may also swallow screws, nails, wire and other small parts.
• Kittens like to taste about everything. Keep all cleaning products and other chemicals stored away and out of reach. Anything with phenyl(check the label) is deadly to cats (this include products such as Pineoclean and many other disinfectants).
• Keep the toilet lid CLOSED.  Cats can fall in OR may drink out of toilet bowls and it’s wise Not to use chemicals in your toilet. The best disinfectant to use is one part bleach to 30 parts water.  Remember, kittens lick their paws, so be careful what you use on your floors and counters (again, a bleach solution is the safest).
• Cats love certain scents, and one of their favorites is antifreeze which will kill a cat quickly. If your kitten should get into anti-freeze and you discover it in time, RUN to the nearest vet or emergency clinic.
• NEVER use Lysol products around cats! Over a period of time it can sicken or kill a cat.

Keep the phone numbers of your vet  AND an emergency 'after hours' clinic AND local poison control center,  posted by your phone. National Animal Poison Control Center ( www.napcc.aspca.org/ )

Poisonous plants (may Not be a complete list.):
The following plants are in some degree poisonous or hazardous to cats: Anemone, black cherry, bloodroot, buttercup, caladium, caster bean, clematis, crocus, cycads, daphne (splurge laurel), delphinium, dicentra (bleeding heart), dieffenbachia, elephant’s ear, english ivy, foxglove, four o’clock, hellebore, hemlock, holly, hyacinth, hydrangea, indian splurge tree, jack-in-the-pulpit, jerusalem cherry, jimson weed, lantana (red sage), larkspur, lily-of-the-valley, mistletoe, morning glory, mountain laurel, oleander, philodendron, poinsettia, poinciana (bird of paradise), poison ivy, poison oak, pokeweed, rhododendron, solandra (trumpet flower), star of bethlehem (snowdrop), sweet pea, thornapple, wisteria, and yew. Get rid of all poisonous plants.  The plants are Not worth the life of your cat.

Collars and Leashes:
If you use a collar on your kitten ONLY use a STRETCH collar and check it weekly to be sure it is not becoming too tight as the kitten grows.  A too-loose collar is also dangerous. An elastic collar or breakaway STRETCH collar is the best choice, as it will separate if it becomes caught on something.  NOTE:   Regarding breakaway collars, they have been known NOT to breakaway.  If YOU cannot break the collar open using two fingers on your SAME hand, then it may be too difficult for your cat to break away this type collar.
If using a collar, include an ID tag but use the small tag meant for cats and Not the larger tag.

If you train your kitten to a leash, use a harness designed for cats - never a collar (a cat will only struggle against the pull of a collar around its neck, but is more amenable to the behind-the front-legs tug of a harness.) Remember that harnesses are not totally secure, and a cat wearing a harness and leash should NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat may slip out of the harness, or strangle himself on the leash. Do NOT leave a harness on an animal when indoors or unsupervised. Harnesses are not only uncomfortable for wearing in the house but the animal can get the harness snagged on something.
Never walk a leashed cat near a roadway or on a busy sidewalk unless you’re sure the cat is very calm (cats that can be trusted not to panic in these situations are literally one-in-a-million!) The noise and motion of cars, people, other animals, etc. can cause a cat to panic, slip its harness, and dash into danger. The best place for your leashed cat is in your own quiet back yard with you there with them.

Declawing:
Declawing is a mutilation, not a minor operation. A declawed cat cannot escape nor can they defend themselves as well as a cat with claws.  Additionally, a declawed cat is very likely to bite (because it does not have its claws for defense) and to refuse to use its litter box (because its mutilated toes hurt when it tries to dig.) It is perfectly possible to train your kitten not to scratch your furniture, and keeping its claws clipped will protect your possessions while it is learning its manners. Provide at least one, or better yet, several scratching posts for your kitten as soon as possible. Try to get the posts covered with a material of a different texture than your upholstery, so the kitten doesn’t get confused about which object is OK to scratch and which isn’t. (A wooden post wound tightly with heavy sisal rope [they do not like nylon or plastic] makes a good scratching post.) Encourage and praise the kitten when it uses the post; squirt it with a spray bottle of water and shame it when it uses something else (see ‘Training’ below). Read thi information on Declawing found on these sites. READ THIS: A Veterinarian's View   and   What You Need To Know.   In many countries declawing is against the law and considered cruelty  to animals!

TRAINING
Contrary to widespread belief, cats are trainable by proper methods: rewards and tangible but removed punishment (see ‘Spray Bottle Method’ below).  Cats should be taught Not to jump on counters since they may jump on a stove and be burned!

Be firm and patient with your kitten. By teaching it the house rules now, you can avoid future behavioral problems. Actions that are cute in a kitten may not seem so cute in an adult (such as nursing on your arm or sitting on the dining room table). If the kitten scratches its claws where it should not, firmly(Not yell) say "NO", take it to its scratching post, and make scratching motions with its feet. Kittens respond well to a firm voice and patience. they are naturally fastidious, and want to behave.

The Water Spray Bottle Method: Behavior problems that do not respond to "NO!" can usually be modified by giving the kitten a quick shot of water from a spray bottle. This method removes you from the punishment in the kitten’s mind, which is desirable for two reasons: The kitten doesn’t begin to fear you as a source of punishment (as it would if you spank!), and it thinks the water is ‘An Act of God,’ and will refrain from the undesirable behavior even if you are not around. (A similar method works to keep your kitten from running outdoors: Stand outside, hose in hand, door open, and spray the kitten when it sets foot outside. After a few times, the kitten will decide that there’s nothing out there that it wanted anyway!

PLAY - WHEN, HOW LONG, WHAT KIND?

Do NOT rough play with your kitten, as this can make the kitten too aggressive. (If the kitten kicks at your hand or bites at your fingers, say "NO", blow in its face, and remove your hand.)

Kittens and adults like to play. Generally, the morning or early evening (following afternoon naps) is the best time if you want an enthusiastic response, especially in an adult.

Soft toys with no small, easily removed and swallowed pieces are good toys; a piece of sturdy cloth attached to a thick string tied to a stick is wonderful. With it you can go ‘fishing for kittens’, and the pouncing and jumping it elicits is great exercise for the kitten. (If you use this type of toy, do NOT leave the kitten unattended with it; the kitten may well get dangerously tangled in the string or try to chew and swallow it.)

Remember that what your kitten needs most is your time and attention. Especially if it is left alone during the day, it will be very glad to see you in the evening and demand quite a bit of attention. Please remember that kittens are sensitive, living creatures, and don’t allow your friends, children, or other pets to mishandle the kitten. One sure way to guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to mistreat it, even inadvertently. On the other hand, plenty of attention, love and considerate play will result in a companion who will give years of joy.

GENERAL NOTES

Find a VET immediately and establish a relationship.  Waiting until you have a sick animal is Not the time to find a vet you like and feel comfortable with.   Make sure to ask the vet about who would you contact during the hours their clinic is not open. Some vets treat their own emergencies and other vets send you to a   'Emergency Pet Clinic'.   If the latter, then have this 'Emergency' Phone Number and address written down and ready to use in an emergency.  (IMPORTANT: Drive by the Emergency Clinic so you know how to get there.)
Keep the phone numbers of your vet  AND an emergency 'after hours' clinic readily available.

If you plan of giving the currently available Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) vaccine to your kitten, be aware that having had the FeLV series may NOT 'guarantee' the kitten will be immune to FeLV; be just as careful about exposing the kitten to possible FeLV positive cats as you would if the shots had not been given. (Questions or doubts .... check with your vet.)  Are Shots Safe & Necessary?

Do NOT use flea collars, first because their effectiveness is questionable and second, because flea collars can cause skin sores on long-haired cats due to the concentration of poison around the neck. Rather, a good rinse OR monthly single dose of products such as Frontline or Advantage (available from your vet) is a better solution to the problem of fleas. Consult your vet for the best option.      Be CAREFUL and do NOT over use flea products!!!!  

SUPPLIES

• Litter box  - Keep in mind your kitten will grow so get a Large one.
• Litter box scooper
• Litter box liners(ONLY needed if you do not want to have to wash out the litter pan every week.)
• Litter - Do NOT use clumping litter for kittens as it can be dangerous.(If your kitten is not using the litter box but going elsewhere, it 'may' be the litter so try another brand.)
• Food  -  Only feed High quality 'kitten' food.  (Petsmart, Petco and Pet Shelters usually sell high quality pet food.)
• Food Dishes (Always get separate water and food bowls which are Not attached to each other.)
• Scratching posts - At least two. (Placed in the rooms that the cat frequents most.)
• Cat Brush  (Medium & Long hair cats need to be groomed regularly.)
• Cat carrier
• Nail clippers  (Use extreme caution when using nail clippers.  Never cut below the cuticle line in the nail.)
• Toys (but No toys with objects inside which the kitten could swallow or string.)
• Get an 'easy to read' first aid, emergency book.   FirstAidBook   and   AnotherBook
  
• Do NOT use Lysol products around cats! Over a period of time it can sicken or kill a cat.

HEALTH STATUS  -  Keep a record of when vaccinated or wormed and keep all information in a place you can easily locate.  Keep readily available the phone numbers of your vet  AND an emergency 'after hours' clinic.

Consider a microchip.