ACCLIMATIZATION TIME:
Please remember that this is probably your puppys first time away from the
only home it has ever known. Give them time to explore but provide supervision. AFTER a
day for adjusting and exploring their new home, then carefully introduce them to other
pets in the house. Do not 'force' a nervous animal to meet each other. Keep their
introduction to other family members and pets as quiet and stress-free as possible and
allow it a day to become use to the new surroundings.
Show the puppy its food and water bowls (Animals do best
with their 'own' 'food bowl.) As soon as you get
it home give the puppy time to potty outsdie but be prepared for accidents! However, dont
spank the baby if it has an accident! Remember puppies have small bladders and must use
the potty more than adults. Make sure the puppy has regular potty breaks
Housetraining tips.
Be aware that the puppy might cry a lot the first couple of nights.
Although it is completely weaned, it may miss being around other puppies, misses mom or
just feels insecure and lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other
pet(s), this crying should stop. (If it does not stop crying, there could be another
problem and you should consider consulting your vet.)
OTHER PETS:
If you have other pets, wait
until the puppy is settled and comfortable before bringing in other animals, one at a
time. Do NOT leave the puppy alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain that
they are good friends(this may be several weeks!) First let the animals smell where
the other has been and then see each other from a distance. When they are first
introduced, if it is a dog and cat, have the dog on a leash and make sure the cat does not
scratch the dog. (Keep a water spray bottle handy). Be certain to
give the pets already in your home lots of attention in order to keep them from being
jealous and to avoid stirring territorial instincts. It is always possible that the
original pet may not take too kindly to the new addition. The new puppy should have
its own food dish.
FOOD - WHAT KIND, HOW MUCH, HOW OFTEN?
Puppies need to be fed smaller size meals but more times per day than adult
animals. ALWAYS use PUPPY food for dog under 1 years. This food is especially
formulated for growing animals. (Read the label for how much to feed based on their
weight.)
Have plenty of fresh water available at ALL times.. Introduce any
animal to any new foods gradually to avoid upsetting its stomach. New foods should be
mixed with he food the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food
and less of the old until theanimalis eating the new food exclusively. Use high quality
name brand 'puppy' food. (Petsmart and Petco usually sell
high quality pet food.)
Feed PUPPY food to dogs less than 1 year .... Puppy
Food
Even if they look big, their bones are still growing and they need
Puppy food.
LARGE Breed puppies less
than 1 year (pups who will grow to be 60
lbs. or more)
should be fed LARGE
Breed Puppy Food.
If you are unsure as to your pup's estimated adult
weight, ASK your vet to give an estimate.
Puppy
Food for SMALL Puppies(Small Bites)
It is probably best not to give treats. If you do give treats NEVER exceed 10% of
the diet. If you make a regular habit of giving a treat after you finish eating,
the puppy will learn to look forward to it and wont bother you, your family, or your
guests while you eat, but will wait patiently.
MILK - Contrary to popular belief, cows milk
is NOT good for animals. Most cant digest it properly and consequently get
diarrhea. Do NOT give cow's milk!
FOOD DISHES - Plastic dishes
should be fine if you are feeding dry food. If feeding canned food use Aluminum or
glass/glazed porcelain/china dishes are best. Plastic
dishes can harbor germs in the surface. For water any type is fine but make
sure it is large enough and KEEP it filled. You should have water bowls BOTH
inside AND outside. Even if your pet only spends a brief amount of time outdoors,
they should ALWAYS have access to Water!
SAFETY
Before you let your puppy loose in your home, check the following safety
hazards.
- Electrical and phone cords left dangling
- Keep Toilet lids CLOSED. (A small animal can easily drown in a
toilet bowl AND NEVER allow animals to drink from a toilet. (Avoid using
automatic toilet bowl cleaners in case the animal should even drink from the toilet it
could be very serious.)
- Make certain they canNOT get in the fireplace.
- Open stairways ('half wall' or open rails) - Kittens,
puppies, cats and dogs are at great danger in home with a 'half wall' or even
open rails on an upstairs room. They can easily fall through or jump over a half wall,
plunging down to the floor below! Take precautions!
- Reclining chairs and hide-a-beds (the mechanism of these can easily crush
an animal who has crawled inside)
- Hideaway (Murphy) beds (again, they can crush an animal caught in the
mechanism)
- Fringe or any loose trim (puppies have been known to strangle when their
heads get twisted in the fringe or in a hole between trim and fabric)
- Dangling drapery cords (another invitation to strangulation)
- Accessible garbage (especially any kind of bones - bones can either
splinter and perforate the stomach or intestines, or form an intestinal blockage)
- Needles and/or thread; knitting and/or crocheting materials
- Rubber bands (which can wrap around the intestines)
- Plastic wrap (the kitten can eat it, strangle on it, or suffocate in it)
- Plastic bags (a small animal can become trapped and suffocate, or get its
head tangled in the loop and panic
- Styrofoam (especially packing "peanuts") which the puppy may
eat
- Cigarettes (They may eat them)
- Yarn or string toys (if they come unraveled, they can wrap around
the intestines or block them)
- Toys with easily removed and swallowed parts (Get
rid of these toys, it is Not worth risking a kitten's life.)
- Cellophane (it turns glassy in the stomach and can cause internal
lacerations)
- Christmas tree needles, tinsel and decorations
- Open refrigerators, dishwashers, microwaves, ovens, washers, dryers - always
check for small animals before shutting or turning on any appliance!
- Put away toys attached to string after use. Animal might chew and
swallow string. Avoid toys with parts than can easily be chewed off.
- Keep your workshop off limits. Animals may swallow screws, nails, wire
and other small parts.
- Keep all cleaning products and other chemicals stored away and out of
reach. Anything with phenyl(check the label)
is deadly to animals (this include products such as Pineoclean and
many other disinfectants).
- Keep the toilet lid CLOSED. Cats can fall in OR may drink out of
toilet bowls and its wise Not to use chemicals in your toilet. The best disinfectant
to use is one part bleach to 30 parts water. Remember, kittens lick their paws, so
be careful what you use on your floors and counters (again, a bleach
solution is the safest).
- Antifreeze is VERY deadly. If your animal should get into
anti-freeze and you discover it in time, RUSH IMMEDIATELY to the nearest vet or emergency
clinic. Speed is of the utmost importance to save your pets life..
Keep the phone numbers of your vet AND
an emergency 'after hours' clinic AND local poison control center, posted by
your phone. National
Animal Poison Control Center ( www.napcc.aspca.org/ )
Poisonous plants (may Not be
a complete list.):
The following plants are in some degree poisonous or hazardous to cats: Anemone,
black cherry, bloodroot, buttercup, caladium, caster bean, clematis, crocus, cycads,
daphne (splurge laurel), delphinium, dicentra (bleeding heart), dieffenbachia,
elephants ear, english ivy, foxglove, four oclock, hellebore, hemlock, holly,
hyacinth, hydrangea, indian splurge tree, jack-in-the-pulpit, jerusalem cherry, jimson
weed, lantana (red sage), larkspur, lily-of-the-valley, mistletoe, morning glory, mountain
laurel, oleander, philodendron, poinsettia, poinciana (bird of paradise), poison ivy,
poison oak, pokeweed, rhododendron, solandra (trumpet flower), star of bethlehem
(snowdrop), sweet pea, thornapple, wisteria, and yew. Get rid of all poisonous
plants. The plants are Not worth the life of your cat.
Collars:
Puppies can grow fast. Keep checking the tightness of their
collar at least every other week to make certain it is not too tight. You should
be able to stick 3 'adult' finger between their neck and their collar 'easily'
but snug.
If using a collar, include an ID tag with two phone numbers.
NOTE: If you ever use a 'harness', do Not leave it on except when walking. Hanrness
can be very uncomfortable for a puppy or adult dog and rub and cause sores behind their
leg.
TRAINING
Be firm and patient . By teaching it the house rules now, you can avoid future
behavioral problems. Actions that are cute when young may not seem so cute in an
adult. Animals respond well to a CALM, but firm voice and patience.
PLAY - WHEN, HOW LONG, WHAT KIND?
Puppies play hard and need frequent naps. Instruct all human family
members to leave the puppy alone when the puppy is napping. The puppy needs to
be able to rest when they feel the need and NOT to be bothered. (It is a good lesson to
teach children, to be respectful of the needs of other and to be patient and consider.)
Do NOT rough play with your PUPPY, as this can make an animal too
aggressive. Puppies who have been played with roughly will probably
continue to play rough when they become an adult. Dogs are sometimes taken to
shelters because a person says the animal is too rough with their children. However it
was their children who played rough with the puppy and taught the
animal how to play!
Soft toys with NO small, easily removed and swallowed pieces are good
toy. Do NOT give any age dog a ball that they can close their mouth over because it
can be swallowed and they can sufficate and die.
Remember that what your puppy needs most is your time and attention.
Plenty of attention, love and considerate play and paitent but firm training will result
in a companion who will give years of joy.
GENERAL NOTES
Find a VET immediately and establish a relationship. Waiting until you have a
sick animal is Not the time to find a vet you like and feel comfortable with. Make
sure to ask the vet about who would you contact during the hours their clinic is not open.
Some vets treat their own emergencies and other vets send you to a 'Emergency Pet
Clinic'. If the latter, then have this 'Emergency' Phone Number and address
written down and ready to use in an emergency. (IMPORTANT: Drive by the
Emergency Clinic so you know how to get there.)
Keep the phone numbers of your vet AND
an emergency 'after hours' clinic readily available.
Do not use flea collars, their effectiveness is questionable and other
pets might chew on the collar. Rather, a good rinse OR monthly single dose of
products such as Frontline or Advantage (available from your vet) is a better solution to
the problem of fleas. Consult your vet for the best option.
Be CAREFUL and do NOT over use flea products!!!!
SUPPLIES
- Their own Water Bowl
- Food - Only feed High quality 'puppy' food. (Petsmart, Petco usually sell high quality pet food.)
- Food Dishes (Always get separate water and food
bowls which are NOT attached to each other.)
- Dog Brush (Medium & Long hair dogs need to be groomed regularly.)
- Dog carrier - Remember they will
grown and plan accordingly.
- Nail clippers (Use extreme
caution when using nail clippers. Never cut below the cuticle line in the nail.)
- Toys (but No toys with objects which
the puppy could swallow or string.)
- Get an 'easy to read' first aid, emergency book. FirstAidBook
and AnotherBook
HEALTH STATUS - Keep a record of when vaccinated
or wormed and keep all information in a place you can easily locate. Keep readily available the phone numbers of your vet AND
an emergency 'after hours' clinic.
Consider a microchip.
|